Paris

Paris, Oct. 26-29

I am so glad that I made the trip to Paris.  What a wonderfully beautiful city!  The most amazing thing is the abundance of gorgeous buildings wherever you go.  I was “oohing” and “aahing” at nearly every turn. I would love to live there—well, if I were wealthy and spoke French.

I went by train from Martigny to Lausanne, then changing trains to Paris. I was a bit anxious about being on the right platform, getting on the right train, etc, which seemed odd to me, being I navigated Seoul, Korea, by myself several years ago, where it was much harder to find my way.  But I made it just fine--- no strikes ---- just a 45 minute delay one place which may have been strike related.  I then navigated the Metro to the stop near my hotel, and found my way there.  It was a great place I found on EuroCheapo.com ---- very near the Eiffel Tower.  The neighborhood was pretty upscale.  Because many consulates and foreign-service offices are nearby, many diplomats and so forth live in the area.  All I did the first afternoon/evening was to explore the neighborhood.

It was impossible to see everything on a three-day trip especially when I had never been there before.  I bought a ticket for a “hop-on-hop-off” tour bus, and that worked out well.  The weather was good, cool in the mornings and evenings, but sunny during the day, and no rain, which made riding in the open-air bus very workable.  I visited Notre Dame Cathedral, and actually stayed for the Mass.  The Cathedral was very beautiful.  Later I went to the center of the city, visited the Opera area, the Madeleine church, the Apple Store, a huge department store, Galleries Lafayette, and other places downtown, getting on and off the tour bus.  The second day was museum day--- I visited the Louvre and the Orsay. The third day I spent most of the time I had before my train along the Champs Elysees.  In the evenings I was worn out from walking during the day, so I didn’t go to any shows or experience the Paris nightlife. I tried out different restaurants in the area of my hotel, and was in bed by 10 or 11. 

I wore my Vancouver 2010 jacket, with Canada written across the front, that and a backpack made it obvious I was a tourist, and people very helpful if I needed directions or had questions. There was one downside to this—apparently this made me a target for a particular scam.  I didn’t catch on the first time.  A woman was walking along beside me, and she picked up something from the sidewalk.  It was a man’s wedding band.  She smiled and said in broken English, “Ah, Good luck!” Then she handed it to me, and said, “It’s for you.”  I said no at first—she insisted.  She said you take it---I have no husband, no family.  Then she said she was from Bosnia, and lost her passport—could I give her some money for my good luck.  I said no, and then handed the ring back to her, realizing it was a set up form the beginning.  The odd thing was that this happened to me four more times in three days!  I saw one woman look at me and then drop the ring right in front of her. I found it interesting to observe---- I guess I look pretty gullible! 

Oct 30: Lausanne- Olympic Museum

We visited the Olympic Museum in Lausanne, the headquarters of the IOC.  It is in the most beautiful setting, on a steep hillside right on Lake Geneva. There is a lovely garden with impressive sculptures. The fall color was as beautiful as in Minnesota.  It was interesting to visit there so soon after the Vancouver Winter Olympics.  We happened to meet a woman who once lived in Vancouver who now works for the IOC.  As you see, it’s been a busy time!

Our Cruise, Part 2

Oct. 21: Salerno

Our port stop was in Salerno.  We had the options of going to either Naples or Pompeii, on tours offered by the cruise line or on our own by train.  Helene and Loriane did go to Pompeii, but I opted for a quieter day, staying on the ship, sitting in the sun and reading a great book, Cutting for Stone. It was a beautiful day.  After Gloria and I had lunch, I took a walk into Salerno, which turned out to be a little disappointing as the whole town shuts down for the afternoon --- as is the practice in southern Italy, I learned.  I joined up with some other folks from the ship and we still had a good time.

Oct. 22: Civitavecchia/Rome

Civitavecchia is a port town 80k from Rome. The tour offered by the cruise line was 94 Euros, so we opted to do it on our own.  We were able to get a 9 Euro transit pass that entitled us to take the train to Rome and return, and use all buses and subways all day.  In addition we purchased a  “hop-on-hop-off” open-air tour bus pass for 15 Euros and we were all set. Loriane and I left in the morning, but by the time we waited for the shuttle from the ship and got on the train, it was just before noon when we reached the Vatican.  We managed to see quite a bit before catching the train back at 6:30 pm.  I am amazed how much we were able to visit. We were with a Jewish couple from Montreal, Jacques and Leontyne, who were pharmacists, and originally from Morocco. Loriane and Helene had traveled with them the day before. They were interesting, but also a bit irritating because they would incessantly ask questions of people to get directions etc. On the train to Rome they cornered this really nice Italian man, Alessandro, on his way into Rome for work.  He was very helpful and spent a lot of time giving us directions and plotting out a route for us.  He spoke English quite well.  The problem was that Jacques who is Francophone, thinks his English is great, but it’s not. So when we were getting embarrassed about Jacques asking questions over and over, and tried to thank Alessandro for his help, so he could get back to his work, Jacques pipes up and says, “Oh, this is good for him to be able to practice his English.”  He kept making embarrassing comments like this. Shortly after the Vatican, we decided to go our own way. We saw the Coliseum, the Piazza di Spagna (where we climbed the 138 steps), Trevi Fountain and lots more. The weather was like a perfect summer day.

I never thought I would get this fabulous experience. I hope see more of Rome again sometime, but I am so grateful to have been there at all; it was wonderful.

Oct. 23: Elba

Elba was our last stop.  It is a beautiful place, with wonderful beaches and mountains. Of course it is probably most known to us for Napoleon’s palace there, where he spend time in exile.  Gloria, Helene and I spent a few hours walking around the city, Portoferraio, while Loriane walked up to the fort.  The Isle of Elba is famous today as a tourist resort.

Oct. 24: Back to Switzerland

We arrived back in Marseille early Sunday morning.  Contrary to all the strike rumors we heard, we were able to get into port, and by about 10:00 am we were on our long drive back to Martigny.  It was snowing at higher elevations as we drove through the Alps. We went through Albertville, the site of the 1992 winter Olympics, and through Chaminox-Mont-Blanc.  We arrived in Martigny in the early evening, very tired.  Helene and Loriane have to be back to work Monday.  I’m going to be resting up and doing laundry.  I leave for Paris on Tuesday, Oct. 26 for 3 days.  Hopefully the trains will be running on schedule.

Cruising the Mediterranean

Oct 16: Avignon

By the time we arrived in Avignon, it was early evening so we checked into the small apartment hotel we had reserved, and then went out to find some dinner.  Helene’s car is a Kia Opirus---it must be the largest model they make.  She was amazing -----squeezing through the narrow winding streets of the old part of city of Avignon, backing up when the street became impassable, avoiding pedestrians and parked cars and finally negotiating our way into a parking garage with ramps so narrow we had to hold our breathes to squeeze through.  Finally we found a typical little French bistro and had dinner.  The next morning we visited “Le Palias des Papes,” (Popes’ Palace) which became the seat of the Christian world in the 14^th C, when 9 different popes resided there--- in sumptuous luxury and debauchery. It is apparently the biggest Gothic palace in the world.  We didn’t have time to take the full tour, as we had to be on our way to Marseille to board our ship in the afternoon.  The legendary bridge of Avignon was also at that site. “sur le pont d’Avignon,  l’on y danse….”

Oct. 17: Marseille

The most “striking” thing about Marseille was the garbage.  This was the third or fourth strike we came across in France, which I was told, is what happens there whenever there is a holiday.   So far we have been very lucky though.  The trains are on strike, so we travelled by car.  Then we heard there was no gasoline deliveries, but were able to find enough available.   Finally our ship just barely was able to sail, as the harbor pilots were also striking. 

But sail we did, leaving Marseille around suppertime on Sunday.  Almost all of the 800 people on the cruise are from France, or are French speakers.  I have been told there are a few Norwegians on board also.  We have met a couple from Quebec.  The crew who are from all over the world, the Philippines, South America, Vietnam, etc. speak English, some fluently.    Every thing is in French---the entertainment, the menu, any announcements, the daily newsletter, everything.  This is somewhat disappointing to me--- I thought I might find a few English speakers to visit with.   Of course my travel companions can translate for me, and occasionally I can have a very brief dialogue with someone at table, etc, but it is a bit awkward.  The cruise ship is very nice—and of course there is no end to good food and wine. 

Oct. 18: Ajaccio

Monday morning we docked in Ajaccio, on the isle of Corsica, which is now French, but has bounced back and forth from Italy to France, and I suppose others, over the years.  The people don’t consider themselves either French or Italian, but fiercely identify as Corsican.  The city is on a hill, as are all of these port towns.  Ajaccio has a series narrow passages leading down from the top of the hill to the sea, running perpendicular to the streets.  These were for the people to escape to the sea whenever they were invaded or there was some kind of disaster.

We had most of the day to explore the area.  All of us walked through the old city in the morning, doing some shopping and visiting some churches.  We returned to the ship for lunch, and Gloria stayed behind, as we headed out again.  I visited the Fesch museum, which has the largest collection of classical oils in France, outside of the Louvre.   They were once the private collection of Cardinal Fesch, whose “palace” is in the area.  Ajaccio is also Napoleon’s hometown.   The cruise we are on is called “on the path of Napoleon. “ Loriane and Helene walked through most of the old and new cities.

Oct. 20: Valetta, Malta

Tuesday we were at sea all day, and on Wednesday we docked in Valetta, Malta.  We only had the morning on shore, so Loriane, Helene and I took a bus to the city centre and then did a lot of exploring from there.  Each city has a distinct flavor.  The old city of Malta is walled.  The area is beautiful, the air warm and fresh.  The official language is English, because England held it last before its independence in 1964.  However most of the English we heard had a very strong Italian accent.  There are definitely vestiges of England’s presence--- the red phone booths and a Marks & Spencer’s store for instance.  Talk about a place that was always being occupied by some outside force--- the large swanky hotel in the centre of the city is called “The Phoenician!”

Last night’s show was especially great—a revue called “Destinations,” presenting singing and dancing from many different countries.  “Danny Boy” brought me to tears.

We are all doing well--- minimal seasickness—although the sea has been rough at times.  We are having a great time.  Next on to Italy.

I hope all is well where you are.

Love, Maggie Rose

Heading Out to Sea

Helene, Loriane, Gloria and I are going on a Mediterranean cruise after all.  Helene found one that is 8 days and 7 nights, for 390 Euros, which is about $80 per day Canadian. We depart from Marseille, France on Sunday, then to Ajaccio (in Corsica), Valetta (Malta), then Naples, Civitavecchia/Rome, Elba, and back to Marseille. We are driving to Marseille--probably leaving here on Saturday morning and spending the night in Avignon.  It’s a 3-star boat, the Costa Marina, and we have inside cabins, but that’s just for sleeping anyway.  We get into port at each of our stops, so there is plenty of time for exploring.  I will probably take a tour into Rome--- how could I miss that?  I can barely imagine that I am actually having this experience. 

I hope to post about the cruise, but may have to wait until we return, as I am not sure how Internet access works from the ship--- it is available, but the cost may be too high. 

The weather has turned colder here, the summery days are gone, and I am told there will probably be snow on the mountains when we return here, on Oct 24. The valley where we are still stays quite mild all winter.  And not much rain either. It’s just about perfect, from what I hear.

Thanks to all who encouraged me to take this marvelous trip!  I really never thought I would get here. 

Sion

Today, Wednesday, Oct. 13, we visited Sion, which is the capitol of the canton we are in, Valais.   We were invited for lunch at a friend of Helene’s, Nadine, who is an architect, and designed the building and the beautifully decorated penthouse apartment where she lives.  She has the most amazing view of the beautiful city on one side, and of the vineyards and mountains on the other.  Exceptional! 

We were invited for a very special lunch.  In the Sion area it is traditional to have a meal of roasted chestnuts at harvest time.  Our meal consisted of the chestnuts (which we had to crack open), several kinds of cheese, and wine.  It was very interesting and very good. 

After lunch we walked around Sion, through the narrow winding streets, visiting some churches, and other sites. I took lots of photos, but haven’t off loaded them yet. There is a huge castle and an even bigger church on the top of a hill in Sion that are magnificent.  We also visited a Romanesque church built in the 11^th century.

It’s so wonderful visiting a place where you know someone and have the opportunity to visit people’s homes and experience something of the real life there.  I am thoroughly enjoying these experiences, even with the language differences.

Life in Martigny

Multi-Lingual Card Game

Yesterday a friend of Gloria’s came for lunch.  Her name is Olga, and she is in her mid-eighties.  Gloria met her on her last trip here, and they really hit it off.  We ate out on the patio, which we do usually for lunch, as it is still quite warm here in the middle of the day.  With our meal we had local wine, grapes that just came off the vine, figs from the tree in the backyard, local cheese and of course, Swiss chocolate. 

After lunch, they wanted to play cards, and needed a fourth, so I joined in, along with Loriane.  It was the funniest thing, like something from Alice in Wonderland.  Olga was going to teach us a traditional Swiss card game that was new to all of us.  Olga was instructing us in Swiss French.  Sometimes Lorianne had to translate for Gloria because of the differences with Quebec French.  Gloria would say things to Olga in English sometimes, and to me in French.  After they got the gist of what was going on, Loriane tried to pass it on to me in English. I tried to listen and pick up what I could. We started laughing so hard about all of this, and made it through the game.  Loriane and I actually won.  Then we played another game that was new to Olga, and that was just as funny.  So there we sat for much of the afternoon-----Olga, who spoke very little English (I was told that people her age usually only learn the three official languages—French, Italian and German, but kids in school now also have the option to take English.) -- Gloria with her “Franglish”, Loriane, a Swiss who is an English teacher, and me with my smattering of French.  At least I know my numbers.  It was a delightful experience.

Later we drove Olga home to the village where she lives way up in the mountains.  It was just like one imagines villages in the Alps.  Until fairly recently they did not have a grocery store, but trucks would stop by and the people would buy the things they needed right from the truck. 

The Roman City

Today we visited a number of places in the city where old Roman buildings have been excavated.  There is a Roman style house built around 380 AD that had central heating and baths.  Also an amphitheatre, which is now used for cow fights (not bullfights, but cows. When the cows come down from the mountains in the fall, they want to fight to see who is the “queen cow.”  The locals take great pride in their cow being queen, so they bring them together in the amphitheatre to fight it out.)  There is part of the Roman Road that came through Martigny, on the way to Londinium.  Often these ruins are found when a new building is being built, like the apartment building we saw where a large Roman villa is underneath, protected by a concrete and steel floor and then the apartment build on top.  What a nightmare for the contractor when they begin to dig and uncover something like that!

Arrival in Martigny

The flight to Switzerland went pretty smoothly-- probably as well as can be for a long overnight flight.  We didn't do quite as well getting assistance as on the Vancouver to Montreal flight.  We were supposed to have wheelchairs at the Montreal airport, because that was the only option, no carts, so they said, even though we saw some there.  The airport was very busy, and there was a lineup of people waiting for wheelchairs. Of course, I couldn't get Gloria to get help unless I did, so we waited quite awhile.  Gloria was getting worried that we wouldn't get to the gate in time, so finally I took one of the wheelchairs and after struggling a bit with Gloria about who was riding and who was pushing, she got in and I piled all our carry on stuff on top of her, and off we went to the gate.  It wasn't too far.  When we arrived in Geneva, we waited a little while for Hélène (Gloria's daughter, where we are staying) as she got stuck in a traffic jam.  She had us paged so we had some coffee/hot chocolate and waited just a short time.  We stopped at Jean-Francois' place (Hélène's son) on the way home, where he had lunch prepared for us. Victoria (his 4 year old daughter) was there also. We got to Martigny at about 2;30 pm, I think.  I fell asleep on the way, and just kind of stumbled to my bed when we got there. 

I think I have taken longer to get over jet lag than Gloria has.  At least she got up earlier than I did this morning (Saturday).  I slept through the night last night, finally.

On Thursday, Hélène was working, but came home for lunch and took us to market day in town. Yesterday (Friday) in the afternoon, we went to the Valias Fair, (like the PNE, but with half the exhibits being wine tasting booths.  Besides lots of wine, we saw an amazing exhibit from Imperial China.  There were life-sized replicas of lots of that Terracotta Army, the life-sized soldiers and horses found in an emperors tomb, discovered in Xian in 1974. The exhibit was amazing. 

Speaking of amazing, Gloria just got back from a trip to the nearby supermarket on Loriane's big scooter. (Loriane is Helene's 30 year old daughter, who is living at home right now)  I have photos to prove it. Hélène is away this morning taking her sailing test. 

It is so beautiful here!  I love it.  Too bad my French isn't better.  I even have a hard time saying that I don't speak French, but I almost have that sentence down!  Je ne parle pas en Francais. 

Martigny is a very interesting city.   Check out this link for more info. Martigny, Switzerland

Amazing Journey

I am certainly in the process of “savouring” right now!  I am sitting in my bedroom in Martigny, Switzerland, a nice breeze coming in my window, from which I can see one of the Alps Mountains, about a kilometer in from of me.  The house I am staying in belongs to Helene Chevalier, daughter of my 87-year-old housemate, Gloria.   Helene’s daughter, Loriane, also is currently living back at home. 

How I Got Here

This trip came as a real surprise to me.  Three weeks ago, Helene phoned us at home in Burnaby, BC, and proposed that we come for a visit, stopping in Montreal enroute. Gloria had not been to Switzerland for five years and or in Montreal for more than 15 years.  My first reaction was “I’d love to but there is no way I can’t afford it. “  I didn’t say this however, because my heart was saying “Wow!  I’d love to.”

The decision had to be made quickly, because Helene and Loriane are both teachers and their two-week autumn holiday began October 8, and we wanted a week in Montreal on the way.  So, three days later, we made out airline reservations, and left nine days after the initial invite.  Wow!

First Stop- Montreal

My stay in Montreal was very pleasant.  We stayed at the home of Gloria’s son, Denis, and his wife, Lisette, who live in Laval.   We spent much of our time being entertained by family—practically every night was dinner out at someone’s home, or a restaurant.  Most of the conversation was in French, of course, which I can occasionally follow.  I am becoming a little braver about trying to use the words I know.  They were all very kind in including me and I enjoyed these visits.  It was especially wonderful to Gloria reunite with her younger brother, Paul, who was celebrating his 86^th birthday.

I managed to spend two days in the city, and would have liked to have another day there.   I did take a 3-hour bus tour, which gave me a good overview of the wonderful historic buildings and gave me a flavor of the city.  We also drove north to the Laurentians one day, where Denis and Lisette have a beautiful lakefront chalet.  The fall colors were beautiful--- much like in my native Minnesota. An awesome time of the year! Of course, I had some Montreal smoked meat at Dunn’s, visited the Oratoire St-Joseph, and did some shopping in the Underground and on Rue St. Catherines. 

The week went by very quickly.  This was my first real visit to the Montreal area, and I thoroughly enjoyed it.   We had a great time in Montreal -- "Merci beaucoup" to Lisette, Denis, Philippe, Caroline, Luis-Philippe, and everybody who entertained us so lavishly.  

Now on to Switzerland!