Monday, October 25, 2010

Cruising the Mediterranean


Oct 16: Avignon
By the time we arrived in Avignon, it was early evening so we checked into the small apartment hotel we had reserved, and then went out to find some dinner.  Helene’s car is a Kia Opirus---it must be the largest model they make.  She was amazing -----squeezing through the narrow winding streets of the old part of city of Avignon, backing up when the street became impassable, avoiding pedestrians and parked cars and finally negotiating our way into a parking garage with ramps so narrow we had to hold our breathes to squeeze through.  Finally we found a typical little French bistro and had dinner.  The next morning we visited “Le Palias des Papes,” (Popes’ Palace) which became the seat of the Christian world in the 14th C, when 9 different popes resided there--- in sumptuous luxury and debauchery. It is apparently the biggest Gothic palace in the world.  We didn’t have time to take the full tour, as we had to be on our way to Marseille to board our ship in the afternoon.  The legendary bridge of Avignon was also at that site. “sur le pont d’Avignon,  l’on y danse….”

Oct. 17: Marseille
The most “striking” thing about Marseille was the garbage.  This was the third or fourth strike we came across in France, which I was told, is what happens there whenever there is a holiday.   So far we have been very lucky though.  The trains are on strike, so we travelled by car.  Then we heard there was no gasoline deliveries, but were able to find enough available.   Finally our ship just barely was able to sail, as the harbor pilots were also striking. 
But sail we did, leaving Marseille around suppertime on Sunday.  Almost all of the 800 people on the cruise are from France, or are French speakers.  I have been told there are a few Norwegians on board also.  We have met a couple from Quebec.  The crew who are from all over the world, the Philippines, South America, Vietnam, etc. speak English, some fluently.    Every thing is in French---the entertainment, the menu, any announcements, the daily newsletter, everything.  This is somewhat disappointing to me--- I thought I might find a few English speakers to visit with.   Of course my travel companions can translate for me, and occasionally I can have a very brief dialogue with someone at table, etc, but it is a bit awkward.  The cruise ship is very nice—and of course there is no end to good food and wine. 

Oct. 18: Ajaccio
Monday morning we docked in Ajaccio, on the isle of Corsica, which is now French, but has bounced back and forth from Italy to France, and I suppose others, over the years.  The people don’t consider themselves either French or Italian, but fiercely identify as Corsican.  The city is on a hill, as are all of these port towns.  Ajaccio has a series narrow passages leading down from the top of the hill to the sea, running perpendicular to the streets.  These were for the people to escape to the sea whenever they were invaded or there was some kind of disaster.
We had most of the day to explore the area.  All of us walked through the old city in the morning, doing some shopping and visiting some churches.  We returned to the ship for lunch, and Gloria stayed behind, as we headed out again.  I visited the Fesch museum, which has the largest collection of classical oils in France, outside of the Louvre.   They were once the private collection of Cardinal Fesch, whose “palace” is in the area.  Ajaccio is also Napoleon’s hometown.   The cruise we are on is called “on the path of Napoleon. “ Loriane and Helene walked through most of the old and new cities.

Oct. 20: Valetta, Malta
Tuesday we were at sea all day, and on Wednesday we docked in Valetta, Malta.  We only had the morning on shore, so Loriane, Helene and I took a bus to the city centre and then did a lot of exploring from there.  Each city has a distinct flavor.  The old city of Malta is walled.  The area is beautiful, the air warm and fresh.  The official language is English, because England held it last before its independence in 1964.  However most of the English we heard had a very strong Italian accent.  There are definitely vestiges of England’s presence--- the red phone booths and a Marks & Spencer’s store for instance.  Talk about a place that was always being occupied by some outside force--- the large swanky hotel in the centre of the city is called “The Phoenician!”
Last night’s show was especially great—a revue called “Destinations,” presenting singing and dancing from many different countries.  “Danny Boy” brought me to tears.
We are all doing well--- minimal seasickness—although the sea has been rough at times.  We are having a great time.  Next on to Italy.

I hope all is well where you are.
Love, Maggie Rose


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